this is not a guide to CDMX
I can only speak to my (too) short 4-day trip
As a girl who put Tajin
on her list of the 10 things she can’t live without, my trip to Mexico city was long overdue. I’m not calling this a guide because how could I possibly claim to know all the must-dos, sees, and tastes when my 4 day long weekend trip barely scratched the surface of what this city has to offer?!? what I CAN do is share what I did, what I wish I did, and what I liked… and you, my friends, can do whatever you’d like with that information.
Without further ado….
I STAYED IN
Roma Norte. The consensus was clear among the people from which I gathered recommendations and own research told me the same. Roma Norte is one of the trendier neighborhoods in CDMX, known for it’s food and art scene. I was traveling with my boyfriend and two other couples, and we quickly landed on an airbnb in a renovated apartment that delivered exactly what we needed: cleanliness, 3 bedrooms /baths, security at a gated entrance, and honestly extremely comfortable beds (slept like a rock my entire trip). I think the decision to stay in an airbnb might have been different if I was traveling with just girls, but it was not a concern when traveling in a mixed group.
I knew we had landed on the right area to stay when the vast majority of the restaurant pins growing on my google maps list were condensed around the Roma Norte neighborhood. BINGO. We started off most days walking to a breakfast destination and then meandering through different neighborhoods which usually meant ending the day miles away from where we started and ubering back home to rest and change for dinner. Ubers are cheap though traffic can be a real bitch at rush hour, and I can’t speak on the public transit system because I never took her for a spin (which we all deeply regretted at minute 53 of an uber driving us 3 miles back home…)
I ATE
some of the most delicious meals of my entire year. Really the majority of the trip was spent eating and then waiting to get hungry again so I could eat some more. Listing in order of when I ate what…
Taquería Orinoco- locations all over the city and (i think) widely accepted as one of the best taquerías. the closest location to our air bnb was a quick 8 mins walk and so when we arrived late Wednesday night, starving, we walked over for a late dinner. Even at 11:30 pm the place with packed with locals (always a good sign). I ordered one ‘trompo’ (pork) and ‘res’ (beef) taco, ‘costra’ style (with cheese and all the toppings). I guess this is also where I admit that I prefer flour over corn tortillas. As a chef I do feel this is the incorrect opinion, but the heart wants what it wants. After the first bite of my first taco in CDMX, I sank back into my chair and smiled to myself knowing this weekend was gonna be good. I ended up eating here a second time with Jack who arrived a day after me and wanted to experience for himself.
Panaderia Rosetta- 100% lived up to the hype. I wish I could have tried one of everything, but the selection was vast. We tried the hazelnut ‘Berlinesas ‘ (fried donut), Guayaba pastry (my personal favorite), and the house recommendation ‘Mil hojas de frutos rojos’ which, essentially, was a millefeuille layered with berries and cream. The guayaba was so delicious I returned a second time over the weekend to eat again. Wonder along Colima (the street name) afterwards for some cute boutiques.
Contremar- 100% lived up to the hype. Next to Choza, this was my favorite restaurant meal of the trip, so if you’re a seafood lover– this is a can’t skip. With a house margarita (made with lemon, lime, AND orange juice) in hand and selection of tostadas on my plate by 1 pm of Day 1, I was elated. Don’t think you can order wrong on this menu, but personal recommendations are the famous Pescado a la Talla (must), Ceviche Contramar, at least one aguachile (we got the verde de polpo), and some of their tostadas (we got tuna and the special that day, scallop). Even if you’re full, don’t skimp on dessert so you can experience the full selection.
You’ll want to make a reservation here a few weeks before. My understanding is the menu is the exact same at sister restaurant Entremar, which can be easier to score a reservation at.
Rosetta- the sister restaurant to Panaderia Rosetta, Rosetta also came highly recommended as #34 on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants (only one spot behind Pujol). The meal was delicious, but the negroni made with guava infused gin is what stole the show for me personally. The menu contains an interesting mix of modernized Mexican classics and Mexican-Italian fusion through their house made pastas. The corn tamales were my favorite appetizer and the pappardelle with chicken livers and sage was perfectly yummy but nothing to write home about. The ambiance of this restaurant was a true 10/10 and has me wanting to re-do the entire vibe of my apartment.
Odette- another bakery in Roma Norte that came highly recommended and worth a stop on your morning pastry run. We got the jamon and queso croissant (because a ham and cheese croissant is truly my greatest weakness on this earth) and a slice of the carrot loaf. Friends who got the blueberry scone said it was divine.
Street Carts- in every park, on every street, and around almost every corner there are snack carts, fruit stands, and taco, tostada, and flauta stations. I will say I was extra conservative when it came to eating street food, having gone on this trip freshly recovered from a nasty stomach virus. This meant my ‘street’ food consumption was limited to packaged snacks (Takis), candy (like these chili covered mango lollipops), and peelable fruit (like this granadilla, similar to passion fruit but sweeter and more vanilla tasting!) Not the most adventurous, but sacrifices had to be made to protect my peace (and bowels).
Licorería Limantour- for making the list of World’s 50 Best Bars, I was underwhelmed. My fluffy paloma was good, but next time I would skip and check out other spots.
Pujol it’s on everyone’s CDMX list and, for me, it’s not a must. Let me explain– this was not a bad meal by any stretch of the definition but when a place is as hyped up as Pujol was, it’s only harder to be blown away. I spoke to a friend who has lived in CDMX for the past year and half and she said “because it’s a menu that changes daily, I’ve had meals that have blown my mind and meals that have left me underwhelmed.” Your experience really depends on the day. The ambiance of the restaurant is unique- the location itself feels tucked away in a residential neighborhood. Inside, the tables are lit up with overhead lights in a way that almost makes you feel like your the only people in the place. Lastly, it was also far and away the most expensive meal we had. Don’t get me wrong, this did not come as a surprise- but expect to pay prices on par with an American fine dining experience.
Coyoacán Market- The morning of our final day we traveled down to Coyoacán, known as the ‘historic center’ of CDMX and, notably, where you will find the Frida Kahlo museum (buy tickets in advance. we did not, and we could not go). Inside the market, you’ll find a maze of stalls selling everything from fruit and vegetables, to hot food, textiles, and lots of small trinkets. It’s touristy, yes, but equally filled with locals stopping in for a midday drink or bite to eat. We settled down at one of many kitchens (local 186) for a pre choza bite to eat. We ordered a mix of tacos, flautas, quesdillas, and huaraches.
I spotted huitlacoche (aka corn fungus, smut, and/or mushroom) on the menu, something I had been hoping to try, and ordered in a quesadilla. It was far more mild than I was expecting, dare I say lacking flavor. I’ll have to try again before making any conclusions. The kind chef behind the counter handed over a parting gift of crickets, which three of us tried. Far juicier than I was anticipating and can’t say I wan’t to rush back for more…
Choza- Let me lead with that I’m not being paid to say any of this. This meal was life changing. You know the rataoutille moment when he eats the strawberry with the cheese and his mind is blown?? that was me this entire meal… especially when it came to the pork neck which might be taking the number one spot for best bite of the year. Everything about this place is a 10/10: The mystery of not being able to search it on maps, the anticipation of having a drink in the listening bar and looking at the menu before your table is ready, the ambiance of the rooftop-level restaurant, and then, of course, the food.
The menu isn’t so big that ordering one of everything is off the table (go hungry with a group of 6-7 and I’d say it’s definitely on the table). I loved truly everything we ordered, but definitely get the pork neck, spicy papaya salad with a side of coconut rice, the ceviche, and the herby pork sausage. The Wagyu burger is perfection, and a vegetarian friend loved the veggie curry with naan. I have to wrap this up because I’m getting upset thinking about how inaccessible this food now is for me. Address is Monterrey 194, only open saturday and sunday 3 - 9 pm. Recommend going for a late lunch: get in line at 2:30 pm to be one of the first inside!
What I did (and wish I did) (besides eat)
Besides eating, most the of the trip was spent exploring neighborhoods (Roma Norte, Condesa, Polcano, Coyoacan), walking through parks (Chapultepec), and wondering through the museums that we came across (the National Museum of Anthropology was huge and fantastic). We had very little pre planned activities, beyond reservations, and although we discussed booking a popular day trip like a vist to the Teotihuacan Pyramids or Floating Gardens of Xochimilco, we ultimately decided to walk and explore more parts of the city. The one activity we did book prior to the trip was Lucha Libre, Mexican acrobatic wrestling of sorts. It was absolutely absurd but entertaining, especially with a group, and I happily sipped my michelada the entire show.
I wish we had gotten tickets to the Frida Kahlo Museum, explored more Taquerias (El Turix was high on my list), and skipped the bars listed on the 50 best list in exchange for smaller, trendier places. Jack wishes we had gone to a soccer game.
FAQs
Did anyone get sick?
Happy to report our group of 6 made it through without major troubles. We were diligent about drinking/ brushing teeth with bottled or filtered water and avoided true street food.
Did you feel safe?
Yes, far more than anticipated actually. I was prepared to walk around seeing police with huge guns everywhere, and this was not my experience. Like I mentioned, I traveled with 2 other girls and 3 guys, so this could have also contributed to feeling safe. We returned home past midnight most nights, and I can honestly say never felt uneasy. That said, we definitely stuck to busy/trendy/ tourist-y areas.
Where do you wish you ate?
At the top of my list were Taqueria El Trompo Imperial, Niddo, Eno for breakfast (chef from Pujol), El Turix, Expendio de Miaz Sin Nombre (friends went here for lunch and LOVED), Quintonil (perhaps consider this over Pujol), and Saint.
Favorite non-food part of the trip?
Walking around Coyoacan was probably my favorite. Since it’s a more historic area in CDMX, I really enjoyed wondering the cobblestone streets and taking in all the Colonial Architecture– very different feel from where we stayed in Roma Norte and the other areas we walked around. Grab a coffee from Café el Jarocho and just explore. If you do this after you visit the Frida Kahlo museum… I’m jealous!!!
Favorite boutiques?
I wish I had more boutique recommendations because I was dying to come across more myself!!! Here are some memorable ones: Rufina, 180 Shop (right next door there is another adorable boutique, can’t find the name), and Zii Ropa.
Did you or anyone in your group speak Spanish?
About half of our group could hold a conversation in Spanish which made ordering at restaurants and navigating the city in general much easier. I’ve taken french and Italian… and am not proficient in either… so I was mostly useless when it came to speaking Spanish, though I learned a couple key phrases to have in my back pocket (a good practice in whatever country you are visiting, if possible!)
ALL IN ALL
CDMX is at the top of everyone’s travel list for good reason. I would highly recommend a visit, especially with a group of friends, as you can have a fantastic time and eat loads of delicious food without breaking the bank. I encourage using these recommendations as just one piece of your pre-travel research, as there is so much more that I simply don’t know about or didn’t get a chance to visit that I can’t speak on!
Until next time…. xoxo,
Maddy
I made my cab stop at Rosetta on the way to the airport at 7am to grab another rol de guyaba to go! I dream of going back :)
indeed this is NOT a guide because real travelers know that rosetta is the worst place to eat, they exploit the workers and steal their tips. All Mexico knows the kitchen is infested with roaches and rats and that the “heavenly guava roll” is made with spoiled cream cheese 😂 Pujol is for white people who have no idea what mexican food is. Niddo has the WORST OWNERS who treat their staff like shit and blackmail them until they quit. Thank god for this tourist white traps, they help us know who is there for hype and who is a responsible visitor.